Xaxa - a unique place on earth - Kalahari part 3

Today we packed up and left lovely Khutse and prepare us for a long drive into the real Central Kalahari Game Reserve. The drive would be 14 hours long and we would drive 214 km through thick sand, a real adventure. We would also pass by two villages where the native San people have settlements.

Before we left Khutse we got to enjoy the company of a lovely leopard tortoise filling up his water supplies from a puddle in the road.

When we reached the thick sand roads we stopped and let the tier pressure down, the air from the tiers was burning hot and this day was the hottest on the trip! In the photo below the roads where still hard-ish :)

Everything started out fine and we enjoyed the nature around us but after some hours the AC seemed to be broken. We stopped for a break under some trees and we heard a bubbling sound from Tess (our car) that’s not a good sign, right? But the engine temperature display didn’t show anything wrong. We decide to fill up with some coolant and let Tess rest for a while. So far we had not met any other cars and we were a bit surprised when two cars joined us in the other direction. They told us they had been on a long safari but now they had to return to civilization because their rear axle had broken!! We then felt quite happy with our car trouble compared to theirs. They wished us a good trip but also warned us about the roads ahead, and since Xaxa is in the middle of the Kalahari there is no quick exit to get out of the reserve, so fingers crossed that we would make it before nightfall.

We stopped at the villages of the San people, very friendly people and we had bought some sweets and cigarettes in Gaborone before we left to give them. Apparently, this is what they like the most as gifts :) We also bought some necklaces made of wood with burned in decorations that they had made. The history of the San people is very interesting and we read up on it after the trip and learned a lot. I had my polaroid camera with me and took some pictures of them that they could keep. The kids really liked this and posed in from of the camera with big smiles! These two villages are permanent settlements and the people living here are not nomads and they travels in and out of the Kalahari, some of the younger ones spoke English. I was amazed at how they survive in this harsh environment. I wouldn’t have lasted a week left in the bush.

The car kept on struggling and we decided we would have to pick up the pace to try to get more air flowing through the engine to keep it cool, and also turn on the heat instead of the cold on AC. Christian was still feeling a bit under the weather so we decide that he would ride with Owen in Brians's car, and Brian and I would take Tess for the last hours. All went well and when we finally took a turn to Xaxa (Great job Tess!) we were welcomed by a pride of lions! Two big male lions, lionesses, and three cubs. They were so curious of us and we could tell that these lions weren’t used to see humans so often. The cubs hid behind bushes but they were curious and popped up to have a look at the newcomers. I unfortunately don’t have any phots of the pride because they were hiding behind the bushes :(

It was soon going to be dark so we headed to camp, there is only one campsite in Xaxa and the scenery is spectacular! Located in the front of a waterhole!

Brian asked us if we would like to “sleep” outside just on the stretcher beds, we would take turns two and two to keep guard. Of course, we said, when are you ever going to sleep under the stars in Kalahari again? We parked the cars in an L-shape and laid out our beds next to each other, in front of us was the fire that we would keep burning all night, it felt very secured and cozy!

Tonight’s dinner was a barbecue on the open fire while we sipped on a chilled gin and tonic and listening to the roars of the lions. Fun fact, we had the best ice cubes ever, quite big ice cubes separately packed that we could place in our personal isolated cups, I have never had a sundowner that tasted that good. Another funny story is that when we opened one of the compartments for food, some eggs had broken, and because it was so hot it had turned in to scramble eggs! :D

When we popped into bed, we almost instantly heard a growling low sound, we turned on the flashlights to the waterhole. Two big Ellies had come down to have a drink! This was just as magical as it sounds :) Unfortunately, the weather changed quickly and the rain started to pour down and we had no other choice than to escape into the cars. We slept in the cars for the rest of the night, surprisingly it worked just fine when you tilt down the seat as low as possible.

In the morning we set off to try and find the lions again, and we had such luck! The male brothers were out on patrol and they wanted to check us out! We could identify their personalities - a pretty boy and a fighter! The pretty boy almost didn’t have any scars on his face (except for a fresh one on his nose) while the fighting brother had lot’s of scars and notches in his ears. They walked in front of us with confident steps!

Our lovely campsite in the daylight!

Xaxa is a must stop if you are going to Kalahari, but since it’s quite remote there is no “toilets or “showers” so if you don’t like it to hardcore one night is perfect. I was now looking forward to take a shower at our next stop Xade. In Xade their is a rangerpost and we could fill up with water (not drinking) there is also hot showers and toilets, amazing how the little things can feel ultra luxurious!

Xaxa was the real thing, so secluded and wild, I don’t think their is a place like this anywhere else in the world <3.